Information about ozone in your hot tub.

1. DEFINITION OF OZONE?
2. ARE THERE ANY BENEFITS OF OZONE?
3. DOES OZONE KILL ODORS, GERMS, BACTERIA AND VIRUSES? HOW?
4. WHAT DOES OXIDATION MEAN?
5. WHAT HAPPENS TO OZONE AFTER IT IS USED UP?
6. HOW LONG DOES OZONE STAY AROUND?
7. IS OZONE BETTER THAN CHLORINE OR BROMINE?
8. IF I USE OZONE IN MY HOT TUB, DO I NEED TO USE CHLORINE?
9. WHAT DOES OZONE KILL?
10. CAN I SMELL OZONE?
11. WON'T I CONTRIBUTE TO OZONE ALERTS?
12. WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF USING OZONE?




Q. DEFINITION OF OZONE?

A. Ozone was first discovered in the 1840's and is nature's natural purifier. It is a chemical known as O³ and is produced, in nature, from lightning bolts during electrical storms (it's clean, fresh scent is often noticed after a heavy rain) and by ultra violet rays from the sun . When these rays enter earth's atmosphere, the oxygen in the upper atmosphere is converted into ozone. This is how earth's ozone layer is created. The special ultra violet rays of the sun are simply duplicated using special ultra violet lamps. When air is passed by these lamps, the oxygen is converted into ozone.Ozone is a form of oxygen also known as "active oxygen". It is a natural purifier, created by combining three oxygen atoms and is a strong cleaning, purification and oxidizing agent. As it reacts with organics it oxidizes unpleasant odors, kills germs, bacteria and viruses.

Ozone does not leave contaminants in the water that smell, look or taste bad nor does ozone leave potentially hazardous by-products such as chloramines that can irritate your eyes, dry out your skin, fade swimwear, and damage pool and spa or water storage equipment. In fact, unused ozone reverts back to life-giving oxygen.

By combining the ultraviolet rays from the sun with the air we breathe, ozone is naturally generated . In 1906, the city of Nice, France, built the first municipal water purification plant using ozone. Today, there are over 2,000 plants worldwide using ozone to purify drinking water.

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Q.ARE THERE ANY BENEFITS OF OZONE?

A.Unlike other sanitizers ozone leaves no unpleasant odors or residual chemicals in your spa. Typically, you can go much longer between water changes not to mention reducing your maintenance time and chemical consumption by up to 90%. Ozone eliminates the problems of red and irritated eyes, dry skin, faded swim wear and other problems associated with chlorine and bromine. Ozone also has no effect on the chemical balance of your spas water and will even help in the removal of dissolved minerals, oils and lotions.

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Q.DOES OZONE KILL ODORS, GERMS, BACTERIA AND VIRUSES? HOW?

A. One of the oxygen atoms has a weak bond and readily wants to transfer electrons. This allows for the transfer of electrons between the contaminant and the ozone molecule. As a consequence, the ozone molecule will come apart. When the single oxygen atom combines with the other organic substances it oxidizes them causing them to be destroyed and eliminated from the water or air. The by-product of this oxidation process is 0, which is oxygen.

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Q. WHAT DOES OXIDATION MEAN?

A. Oxidation means that a substance undergoes a chemical change resulting in a different substance. A common example of this is rust.

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Q. WHAT HAPPENS TO OZONE AFTER IT IS USED UP?

A. When it combines with the other organic substances it oxidizes them causing them to be destroyed and eliminated from the water or air. The byproduct of this oxidation process is simple life-giving oxygen.

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Q. HOW LONG DOES OZONE STAY AROUND?

A. The rate at which ozone lasts varies. In air it is directly related to the temperature, altitude, humidity, weather conditions, and availability of reactive substances. Ozone begins to decompose instantly, however it has a half life of 20 to 100 minutes in dry air, at which time it converts back to oxygen if no organic substances are present. In water the rate at which ozone lasts is directly related to temperature and organic content in the water.

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Q. IS OZONE BETTER THAN CHLORINE OR BROMINE?

A. Unlike chlorine and bromine, ozone leaves no harmful byproducts or odors in your water. Additionally, ozone is the strongest commercially available disinfectant, yet very safe, and over 3000 times faster than chlorine for purifying water and is more effective for elimination of e. coli, giardia, legionnella, and cryptosporidium.

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Q. IF I USE OZONE IN MY HOT TUB, DO I NEED TO USE CHLORINE?

A. Ozone is very effective as a sanitizer, however because of the low doses being produced along with ozone's short life span ,it is improbable that there will be a residual of sanitizer in the water, therefore, it is recommended that you maintain a 1 PPM residual of chlorine to prevent typical algae problems. With ozone, you will notice that you reduce chlorine or bromine use 60% - 90%, water will feel soft and silky and you won't have problems with faded swimwear, red / irritated eyes, or dry skin. Reduced maintenance time and chemical usage will give you more time to enjoy your pool or spa.

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Q. WHAT DOES OZONE KILL?

A. Ozone is known to eliminate the following substances:

• Bacteria - (such as E-coli, salmonella, streptococcus, cholera) . These are micro-organisms about 1/100th the diameter of a human hair and are relatively easy to kill.
• Viruses - (such as influenza, poliovirus, hepatitis). A virus is a parasitic, infectious microbe which can cause disease in humans.
• Parasites - (such as trichina worms, pinworms, amoebae, nematodes and fungi). Parasite eggs are large in microscopic scale and relatively easy to filter out, but are generally resistant to other disinfecting methods.
• Cysts - (such as cryptosporidium and giardia). Cysts are protozoa that produce a special protective shell.
• Chemical by-products in water - such as chloramines an trihalomethenes. Chemical water can leave undesirable odors and taste.

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Q. CAN I SMELL OZONE?

A. Ozone has a sweet smell to it and can be noticed at various levels depending upon their sensitivity, generally .003 to .015 PPM.

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Q. WON'T I CONTRIBUTE TO OZONE ALERTS?

A. Ozone pollution or smog pollution alerts are not the same. This pollution is caused by UV waves striking oxides of nitrogen from auto exhaust and factory emissions.

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WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF USING OZONE

• Ozone destroys bacteria, mold, and mildew, eliminates spores, yeast, and fungus, and inactivates viruses and cysts.
• Ozone oxidizes and destroys oils and other contaminants in water.
• Ozone can significantly reduce levels of harsh chemicals such as chlorine and bromine.
• Ozone acts as a microflocculant aiding in the removal of minerals such as iron and manganese.
• Ozone is pH neutral. Adds no contaminants.
• Ozone leaves no unpleasant chemical taste or smell.
• Ozone dissolved in water will not irritate skin, nose, or ears, nor will it dry out or leave a chemical film on skin.
• Ozone can reduce chlorine or bromine consumption to a minimum, saving money on maintenance.
• Ozone does not affect the pH balance of water like traditional chemical treatment methods.
• Ozone is less corrosive than chlorine in water.

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Chemicals used in Spas & Hot Tubs

Which manufacturer has the best Hot Tub chemicals? Just ask - they all do. All suppliers and manufacturers sell their own products not their competitors. So the best way to find out is to ask an owner. Friends or freinds of friends that have owned a hot tub for a number of years have probably tried different brands and types. They will be your best source of information.

Ozone

Corona Discharge CD vs Ultra Violet UV - There are two types of ozone generator used in the spa industry, one is a CD or Corona Discharge, the other is a UV or one that uses an Ultra Violet light to generate ozone from the oxygen contained in regular air.

UV - Air (usually ambient) is passed over an ultraviolet lamp, which splits oxygen (O2) molecules in the gas. The resulting oxygen atoms (O-), seeking stability, attach to other oxygen molecules (O2), forming ozone (O3). The ozone is injected into the water, or air stream, where it inactivates contaminants by actually rupturing the organisms’ cell wall - thus killing bacteria.

These are the most common type of ozonator. They are less expensive at purchase and less expensive to service.

CD - operate fundamentally by passing dried, oxygen-containing gas through an electrical field. The electrical current causes the “split” in the oxygen molecules as described in the section on ultraviolet ozone generation.

CD Ozonators will cost more and may last a little longer but usually cost more to service.

Pound for pound, ozone is the most potent way to kill bacterial.

Ozone will get you 80% of the way there. You will still need some sanitizer and pH control chemicals. With an ozonator on your hot tub you will use less chemicals. The cost reduction in chemicals reduces operating costs and results in a pay back for the added cost in two or three years.

Chlorine

The most common chemical used in pools, spas, and hot tubs is Chlorine.

Granular Chlorine (Di-chlor)

Granular chlorine has been used in spa water maintenance for years, this in combination with an ozone generator is what I use on my own spa. Chlorine is a fast acting short-lived chemical when used in hot water. It has 2.5 times the oxidizing potential of Bromine, and can be used as its own shock. When used properly it leaves very little odor in the water. The eye burn and strong smell that many people associate with Chlorine usage is primarily due to a buildup of Chloramines ( a byproduct of Chlorine and organic material) in the water. Chloramines can be removed by regular shock treatments.

The method I use is to add one tablespoon of high quality (99% active ingredient) granular chlorine after each use. (Which averages three-four times per week.) Then I check my pH three times per week, usually only having to adjust it once. I add a small amount of scale control chemical whenever I add water. I also add a double dose of Chlorine once a week as a shock treatment. I would estimate my annual chemical costs at $70 per year. About one half to one quarter the average. And my water is crystal clear.

An excellent , and well detailed di-chlor instruction can be found at: http://www.rhtubs.com/dichlor_vermonter.htm

Scale and Mineral control Chemicals

Chemical treatment for mineral in your source water is very important. Out of control mineral content can damage many of the components in the spa, and like other avoidable damage, this is usually not covered under warranty. There are many brand names of scale and mineral control chemicals. The majority of them have two components, one is an acid that helps to break up any calcium scale that has started to form. The other component is a polymer that coats the mineral in the water and keeping it from forming scale. Here again you get what you pay for, with so many mixes out there, there is a strength for every brand. I would talk to again, the dealer as well as friends who have spas or hot tubs. And decide from there.

SOFT WATER - Water's natural state is to be slightly hard. If you add softened water to your spa , the water will tend to draw mineral into itself, through osmosis. Where it finds this mineral, is your heater element and / or your pump seal. You can purchase calcium to harden your water if soft water is all you have available. If you are in doubt as to whether or not your water is hard have it tested, by either a spa and pool dealer, or in some instances of city water, your water company will test your water for you or be able to give you a reasonable estimate of the hardness of your source water. Water drawn from wells can be anywhere from soft to extremely hard. Here again if in doubt, have it tested.

Shock Treatment

Again I will recommend that you read the labels. I have seen the same chemicals packaged in two-ounce packages that sell for as much as six times the same chemical sold in 1 pound packages (on an ounce for ounce basis). Here is one case where marketing plays a big roll in price. I have seen the same chemical shock, in tablet form sell for much more than it does in powder form. DON'T BUY A SALES PITCH! Especially when you are buying chemicals.

The most common spa / hot tub shock treatment, is Potassium mono-per sulfate, or Potassium per-oxy-mono-sulfate, chemically these two are very similar, in their actions they are almost indistinguishable.

When using Bromine tablets in your spa / hot tub, it is necessary to shock the water with one of these non-chlorine shock treatments once a week.

Clarifying Agents , Clarifiers

Clarifiers are, for the most part, a polymer, that goes into the water sticks the particles that cause the water to be cloudy together, making larger particles that the filter can more easily pick out. If over used or used with a tub that has an ozone generator, this flocking agent can cause a sticky brownish scum that can be difficult to clean off, so follow the directions, but keep in mind that with polymer based clarifiers less can be more.

I have tried other non-polymer clarifiers, that were billed as natural, but had no success with them. Most clarifiers are non-toxic anyway so I don't know how much of a benefit "all natural" is with them.

Biguanide Sanitizers

This system uses a Biguanide sanitizer with a Hydrogen Peroxide based shock. I have never sold these products, because the spa manufacturers I was carrying at the time voided portions of the spa's warranty if you used peroxide based shocks. Some spa / hot tub manufacturers still do. So read your warranty before purchasing this type of system.

I can tell you, that I did change a number of other people's customers to Chlorine after they had tried biguanide in their spas / hot tubs. The reasons that they were unhappy with it were.

* Slime, if the right things get introduced to the water, this system can make a pinkish slime.
* Cost, these systems can be prohibitively expensive. As much as three to four times the cost of an ozone and chlorine system
* Toxicity to internal flora. One customer came to me with a concern that the Biguanide would kill the naturally occurring bacteria in their digestive system. I could find nothing to disprove or support this claim.

Mineral Beds

In the last few years a new alternative sanitize has come on the market. These are billed as "natural" and contain silver ( a bactericide) and copper (an algaecide). With these systems it is recommended that you use a Potassium based shock or Granular Chlorine as a shock and to activate the mineral bed.

I have tried to use these systems on several different types of spas without any luck. I have had chemical customers that have used them with success, but to a one all had a pressurized canister type of filter as opposed to an open skimming type filter.

After calculating their chemical consumption and the replacement cost of the mineral bed I found this system to be more expensive than a regular Chlorine or Bromine system.

My best advice here is again talk to someone who is using the system in the same type of spa with the same or more severe bather load before purchasing such a system.

*** SPECIAL NOTE: Since first writing this article, I have seen a growing incidents of pieces of plastic housing from some mineral bed cartridges, getting sucked into the spa / hot tub water pump. This is a non-warranty nuisance, so if you use anything that goes into the filter area of your spa / hot tub be sure that you do not loose a piece down the plumbing , and into the spa / hot tub water pump. Super gluing that sucker together will usually keep it from coming apart in small enough pieces to go down the proverbial tube.

Liquid Minerals or Ions

Coming into fashion are liquid forms of the Mineral based products mentioned above. The same advice and cautions can be applied in the case of these products.

footnote: The use of copper in some of these systems is falling from grace, as EPA regulations regarding the discharge of copper into the water shed get more stringent (Copper kills fish and algae). Silver and now zinc seem to be taking the place of copper for many water treatment programs.

Canada has a ban on many copper based water treatment systems for these reasons.


It is a good idea to check you ozonator frequently to see if it is still working. They will usually have a window through which you can see a purple light, if the light is on the ozonator is working. When you are checking to see if your ozonator is working, make sure that your tub is in the proper mode. (Some Ozonators will only function when the tub is in "filter mode") Note, ozone bulbs can lose potency and should be replaced every 3 years even if they still light.

pH Increaser and Decreaser

pH increaser is used when the pH of your spa's water drops below 7.2 to 7.4, it can also be used to increase the water's Alkalinity level. Most commonly, pH increaser is sold in a powder form which consists of Sodium Carbonate. Not to be confused with Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda) which is commonly sold as Alkalinity increaser. Both Sodium Carbonate and Sodium Bicarbonate will increase your pH and Alkalinity, Bicarb will increase the Alkalinity in a higher proportion. Also sold in liquid form as pH increaser is Potassium Carbonate, which is generally more expensive than the powdered pH increasers. Although slightly stronger I do not think that Potassium Carbonate in the long term pays for itself.

pH decrease is used when your tubs water's pH goes above 7.8, it can also be used to lower the Alkalinity level. Sodium Bisulfate is the dry chemical sold as pH decrease. Sodium Bisulfate can also be found in liquid form. It is not a good idea to use Muriatic acid as a pH decrease in hot tubs, as that it is too strong for use in such a small amount of water.

You should always dilute or dissolve pH control chemicals in a pail of water prior to adding it to the spa. Always add chemical to water, not water to chemical, to reduce splash hazard. The chemicals should then be added near the center of the spa with the jets running.

If you add chemicals directly to the spa there is a risk that strong concentrations of chemical will be pulled into the equipment through the suction intakes.

NEVER ADD ANY CHEMICALS DIRECTLY TO THE SKIMMER OF YOUR TUB.

Here are some of the typical problems you may experience with your hot tub water - the cause and solutions.

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Problem	Cause	Solution
Calcium Deposits on Shell Surface	Hard Water. pH, total alkalinity not in balance	Clean with a non-abrasive Hot Tub surface cleaner Test water, adjust pH as needed Add a stain and scale control chemical
Cloudy Water	pH, total alkalinity not in balance Damaged or dirty filter Addition of incompatible chemicals Low chlorine level Buildup of oils, soap, foreigh matter	Add a water clarifier. Then circulate for a minimum of 30 minutes. After water has cleared, clean filter cartridge with a filter cleaner or replace if necessary. Test chlorine and pH levels, adjust if necessary. Change water.
Colored Water	Copper or iron metals in Hot Tub due to water supply or corrosion of heater. Total alkalinity, pH are low	Add an iron/stain and scale remover. Test pH, adjust if necessary.
Eye and Skin Irritation	pH, total alkalinity not in balance Inadequate chlorine level. Addition of incompatible chemicals.	Test pH and chlorine levels, adjust if necessary
Excessive Foam	pH, total alkalinity not in balance Low calcium hardness Inadequate oxidation Addition of incompatible chemicals Buildup of body oils and/or contaminants	Add an anti-foam agent Add shock Adjust chlorine level Test pH, adjust if necessary Take water sample to dealer to check total alkalinity and calcium hardness Change water
Odor	Inadequate ventilation Addition of incompatible chemicals Insufficient oxidation Inadequate cleaning of cover Low pH Chemical overdose	Test pH and chlorine levels, adjust if necessary Clean with non-abrasive Hot Tub surface cleaner Clean underside of the cover with a cover cleaner or mild soap and warm water
Waterline Deposits & Staining	Buildup of body oils, impurities Use of clarifying agents with ozone Hard water (minerals in water)	Test pH and chlorine levels, adjust if necessary Clean with a non-abrasive Hot Tub surface cleaner Add a scale/stain control chemical Take water sample to your dealer

Water Clarity Procedures for Nordic Hot Tubs

This is a guide following the warranty stated in the Nordic Hot Tub warranty.

CLEAN SHELL FIRST using a mild non-abrasive cleaner (use a “white” Teflon scrub pad if needed to assist in stubborn areas)

1. If using “ground” or “well” water, (do NOT use soft water!) a MINERAL or METAL Gone or Out product must be used on fill-up. (this is not an inhibitor product but a “gone” or “out” product. I recommend Leisure Time “Metal Gone”. The filter may need to be sprayed for a couple days as the minerals collect in the filter (even if not visible still spray)

2. Use ONLY a chlorine Di-Chlor granular product. When using with an ozonator, set the filtration cycle time at 8 to 12 hours a day AT FIRST. This is done on the “control panel” with a setting of either 4 or 8 indicating two 4 hour cycles or two 8 hour cycles. When the “tub” is done being used for the last time of each day it is USED, add 1-2 TABLESPOONS of the Di-Chlor chlorine. This will help the ozonator catch up to the sanitation needed and will also dissipate quickly not leaving a “chlorine” smell. Adjust cycle times according to your water performance.

3. Each day the tub is USED, the ph must be balanced. Again this is done AFTER the last time the tub is USED for that day. A “liquid drop” test kit that tests only chlorine and ph is recommended and needed. When testing the ph, be sure to add less than you think so if more is needed it can be added rather than “adding chemicals” to overcome “over-adding” chemicals. The chlorine test results ONLY need to show a “trace” Di-Chlor reading (if an ozonator is being used too). If an ozonator is NOT being used, the Di-Chlor reading should be in the range indicated by the test kit as correct.

4. From time-to-time, a “clarifier” and a “calcium inhibitor” are needed as a maintenance procedure. This is determined by the usage of your tub. The more it is used, the more “maintenance” chemicals needed.

This is only a guide.

This guide is recommended for 45 days on which YOUR formula and procedure will come together for YOUR tub and needs. Then your tub water maintenance will be easy and care-free.

*NOTE: This becomes easier when your formula is working. A period of time is needed (as the 45 days indicates) to get this correct.

Nordic Hot Tubs are made of a “poly blend” and differs from ALL the rest of the hot tubs typically on the market. Because of this advanced technology and material being used by Nordic Hot Tubs, “other” sanitation systems that require either what is said to be “no maintenance” or continual re-buying of something to get your water clear, is intended to sell more chemicals or products.

Nordic Hot Tub water maintenance is economical, affordable, unique and eventually simple. This is a tried and true guide proven to work EVERYTIME in a Nordic Hot Tub!

FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY AND PRECISELY.

Nordic does not recommend using soft water in your hot tub or spa.

If you have hard water or well water we recommend using a filter that attached to the end of the hose.

If you have very hard water, it is recommended to use Metal Gone.

Soft water tends to be low in calcium and hard water tends to be high. This can disrupt the effectiveness of the chemical balance of the water.

Other Tips:

• You should check the calcium level every time you add water to the spa and adjust as needed.
• The recommended calcium hardness level for a hot tub is between 100 -200mg/l.
• Low calcium can cause corrosion.
• High calcium can cause cloudy water, and calcium deposits throughout the tub.