Hot Tub Cover Care Tips

Care Tips

1. Keep clean with mild soap and water, do not use silicone based cleaners or treatments.
2. Do not scrape or drag cover.
3. Do not use vapor seals to lift or remove cover (pouches at inside ends of hinge area).
4. Do not lift cover without unfastening locking straps.
5. Keep water and snow off top of cover.
6. Do not walk, sit or lean on cover.
7. Attach all locking hold down straps when installing and fasten when not in use to prevent heat loss.
8. Use handles and straps for positioning only, seams will not support the weight of cover.

Inner Core Maintenance

Important: Excess chemicals and/or chemical imbalance will deteriorate the plastic vapor barrier. When vapor barrier is damaged, inner cores will absorb moisture. The following instructions will prolong the life of your plastic vapor barrier and inner cores.

1. Be sure to take the cover completely off the tub when shocking with chemicals and leave it off for a period of 30 minutes or until the chemical level is back to normal. Very important to take cover off, not just flip one side open.
2. Spray or wipe off the bottom side of your cover approximately once a month to get the excess chemical residue off the plastic barrier. These excess chemicals are what cause the plastic to dry out and crack.
3. Approximately every 6 months, take the inserts out and flip them over so that the opposite side of the insert is over the water.

Castle Spa Covers
Division of SewTech, Inc.
Limited Warranty

How long does the warranty last?
This warranty runs for two years from the date of purchase on outer vinyl casing, one year on inner foam core.

Who is covered?
This warranty covers the original purchaser with proof of purchase and registered warranty.

What does this warranty cover?
This warranty covers defects in materials and workmanship.

What does this warranty NOT cover?
This warranty does not cover damage from abuse, misuse or neglect (see listed items).

• Damage due to excessive chemicals or heat
• Inner foam core breakage
• Inner foam core moisture absorption due to foam breakage or damage to plastic barrier
• Damage, tears or abrasions to vinyl cover due to scraping, dragging or sliding of cover
• Damage due to use of silicone based cleaners or treatments (see Care Tips)
• Damage due to use of vapor seals as handles (pouches at inside ends of hinge)

How do you get service?
In order to be eligible for service under this warranty you MUST return the warranty registration within 15 days of date of purchase.

When warranty service is required contact your Castle Spa Cover dealer first, if unable to get service from dealer contact SewTech, Inc. at 517-279-2117.

What will Castle Spa Cover do?
Within the warranty period Castle Spa Covers will do the following:

• upon return of cover we will inspect cover to determine whether failure is due to defects in materials or workmanship
• repair or replace, at our option, any defective cover or part

What will Castle Spa Cover NOT do?

• We will not be responsible for freight cost for return of cover for inspection and/or repair.
• We will not provide substitute or loaner cover during repair period.
• We will not repair under warranty and damage due to the above list not considered defects.

How does state law apply?
This warranty gives you specific rights, and you may also have other rights, which vary from state to state.


Warning
Avoid Drowning Risk

1. STAY OFF COVER - WILL NOT SUPPORT WEIGHT.
2. KEEP CHILDREN AWAY - CHILDREN OR OBJECTS CANNOT BE SEEN UNDER COVER.
3. REMOVE STANDING WATER - CHILD CAN DROWN ON TOP OF COVER.
4. REMOVE COVER COMPLETELY BEFORE ENTRY OF BATHERS - ENTRAPMENT POSSIBLE.
5. NON-SECURED OR IMPROPERLY SECURED COVERS ARE A HAZARD.
6. CHECK COVER FREQUENTLY FOR DAMAGE AND/OR PREMATURE DETERIORATION.
7. FAILURE TO FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN INJURY OR DROWNING.
8. COVER IS CONSTRUCTED TO MEET THE REQUIREMENTS SPECIFIED IN ASTM F-1346-91.

Here is a list of instruction manuals for various cover lifters used by Nordic.

Cover Lifters

CoverMate Lifter Installation Manual
CLICK HERE

CoverMate I - Installation (from Leisure Concepts)
CLICK HERE

CoverMate III - Installation (from Leisure Concepts)
CLICK HERE

CoverMate III - Installation FINAL ASSEMBLY  (from Leisure Concepts)
CLICK HERE

Safe-T-Rail Installation Manual
CLICK HERE

Cover Cadddy Assembly & Mounting Instructions
CLICK HERE


Click HERE to see more of our manuals.

Electrical Connections & Power Hook Up

This is the Power Hook Up for the Geko 240V used on the older Crown Hot tub.

What is the power consumption on the Rendezvous Royal?

This tub has two primary pumps. And the power consumption is the same for both pumps.

But the amp draws are 7.4amps + 7.4amps = 14.8.

Total amp draw would be with the heater and both pumps on high speed.

This would be 7.4(pump 1 high) + 7.4(pump 2 high) + 23(heater) = 37.8amps.

This does not include any amp draw for ozonators, lights, or radios installed.

Power Cord Requirements

The wire gauge will have to meet the local code for a 50 Amp continuous draw circuit at the distance you are running the wire.

Nordic recommends 6 gauge - as long as it is big enough to meet the local codes requirements.

Any ground coating requirements will be determined by your local code.

It must be wired on a 50 Amp GFCI circuit and requires 4 wires.

If you are pouring a concrete pad, or running wires to your hot tub, you'll need to know where it is going.

The Nordic Hot Tubs are Environmentally Friendly with their insulation.

• 2 Pound Density Foam
• Title 20 Certified Insulation

The Appliance Efficiency Regulations include standards for both federally-regulated appliances and non-federally-regulated appliances. Twenty-three categories of appliances are included in the scope of these regulations. The standards within these regulations apply to appliances that are sold or offered for sale in California, except those sold wholesale in California for final retail
sale outside the state and those designed and sold exclusively for use in recreational vehicles or other mobile equipment.

Click Here to View the 2009 California Energy Commission Efficiency Regulations

How fast does the water temperature increase?

Here are the caveats:

1. Ambient Temperature (if it is colder outside, it takes longer to heat the tub)
2. Cover In Place (it will take longer if the cover is off - keep the cover on while heating the water)
3. All components are in good working condition

When you take these factors into account:

The spa will heat between 3 to 6 degrees per hour.

Your first month electric bill.

After you purchase your Nordic Hot Tub, you will see a spike in your electric bill. The first months bill is going to be the highest due to the cost off heating the spa from cold to the desired temperature.

Filter Cycle Setting

Another thing to check is the filter cycle. You may also want to make sure the filter cycle is set on 2 or 3. If it is set higher it can cost more to run.

Extra Insulation

Nordic has an option at the time of purchase to increase the internal insulation - called Title 20 (refering to a Calif. state law). The cost for the title 20 given prior is for it to be installed here at the factory as the tub is being built before it is assembled. In order to install it at your home the tub will have to be disassembled the tub, install the insulation and then reassembled it. Check with the Nordic Dealer who to see if they can perform this at your home.

Based on certified testing for C.E.C. Title 20.

Nordic Spas are insulated for maximum energy efficiency.

Compare our Efficiency rating to ANY competitive sized model.

ESCAPE	CROWN II	IMPULSE DP	SPORT	WARRIOR XL	ESCAPE PREM	RENDEZVOUS
425 US/GAL 220 V $13.39/mo	300 US/GAL 220 V $14.97/mo	300 US/GAL 220 V $14.97/mo	300 US/GAL 220 V $14.97/mo	425 US/GAL 220 V $15.33/mo	425 US/GAL 220 V $16.34/mo	500 US/GAL 220 V $20.88/mo

SET SPA TEMPERATURE	102 (39 C)					MINIMUM DAILY FILTRATION TIME	4 HOURS
AVERAGE AMBIENT TEMP.	60 (20 C)					MAXIMUM DAILY FILTRATION TIME	24 HOURS

Estimates are based on an annual average of 10 cents per Kw/h. Minimum Daily Filtration time.

Your actual cost may vary depending on your local utility rates, local climate conditions and your actual usage of your Nordic hot tub.

Definition: The R-value is a measure of the heat loss for insulation under specified conditions.

Click Here for a Free R-Value Calculator

The primary way heat transfer is slowed down by insulation is convection of the three modes of: conduction, convection, and radiation. A good insulator trap air which reduces convective heat loss leaving only conduction and radiation transfer. The primary role of insulation is to make a material that traps stagnant air.

Our Nordic Tubs use 2 lb. foam which is shown to provide an unbroken layer of insulation across all areas where it is applied.

R Value

is a measure of the capacity of a material, such as insulation, to impede heat flow, with increasing values indicating a greater capacity. A R value of 6 holds heat better than a R value of 1. If you live in Montana the recommended R value for your home should be 6 compared to an R value of 3 if you live in Georgia.

Typical R Value for Nordic Hot Tubs:

Insulation	R Value
Standard Insulation Package	12
Title 20 Upgrade	38

The Title 20 option has its origins from the State of California.

It is a requirement for improved energy efficiency (aka better insulation). For this upgrade, your tub is built with standard insulation, then we attach a vinyl backed insulation on the inside of the cabinet.

Customers have indicated the savings could be as great as $0.50 per day in electricity. Although the actual savings is based on quite a number of variables it is possible the Title 20 insulation upgrade could pay for itself within 12 months.

Hot Tub Cover R Value

The typical cover is 1.5 lb. density foam and with the vinyl cover, the R Value is 7.55.

Typical R Values for Homes across the U.S.

Click the Map for a Larger View (from energystar.gov).

Nordic Filter Cartridges

All Nordic models excluding the Bella and retreat model

Manufacture	Part#
Nordic Products	CARTRIDGE
Pleatco	PRB25-IN
Unicel	C-4326
Rainbow	17-2325
Waterways	817-2500
Premier	27-101
Baker Hydro	17-B1086
Harmsco	RCHRA25
Filbur Manufacturing	FC-2375

Bella Model

Manufacture	Part#
Nordic Products	CARTRIDGE14.5
Pleatco	PRB14.5
Unicel	C-2302
Filbur Manufacturing	FC-2320

Retreat Model

Manufacture	Part#
Nordic Products	CARTRIDGE-T35

What would you apply to the exterior of the tub after sanding it down?

It is a nine (9) year old round Nordic - it still runs great but exterior cabinet is looking a little rough.

Our Service Department recommends a non-oil based sealer.

If you have a cedar cabinet, use a Tongue or Teak Oil available from any paint or hardware store.

Full Nordic Owner's Manual Including All Products in English, French, and Italian

Impulse, Impulse DP, Bella, Sport, Warrior XL, Crown II, Retreat, Escape, Escape Recliner, Escape Premium, Escape Premium Recliner, Crown XL, Rendezvous Royal

CLICK here to view the complete owner's manual for 2011

CLICK here to view the complete owner's manual for March 2008

CLICK here to view the manual for tubs built between August 1998 and March 2008

Quick Reference for Single and Dual Pump Systems

CLICK HERE

Maintaining your Hot Tub	asdfsdf	Troubleshooting
Start-Up and Operating Instruction CLICK HERE Tub Winterization CLICK HERE Diagrams of Electonic Pumps CLICK HERE Filter, Cover and Cabinet Care CLICK HERE		Common Water Problems and Solutions CLICK HERE Common Equipment Problems and Solutions CLICK HERE Geko Pump & Heater Controller CLICK HERE

Other Manuals

Cover Lifters

CoverMate Lifter Installation Manual
CLICK HERE

CoverMate I - Installation (from Leisure Concepts)
CLICK HERE

CoverMate III - Installation (from Leisure Concepts)
CLICK HERE

CoverMate III - Installation FINAL ASSEMBLY  (from Leisure Concepts)
CLICK HERE

Safe-T-Rail Installation Manual
CLICK HERE

Cover Cadddy Assembly & Mounting Instructions
CLICK HERE

Spa Control Manual

Nordic uses the Balboa control system to monitor and operate the tub electronics.

Click HERE to view the Balboa M-7 manual in pdf format.

Hot Tub Wiring Diagram

This is the wiring diagram of the Balboa NOR120 from 1997.

This is a PDF manual coutesy of Balboa Water Group.

It contains information about

• Initial Start Up
• Modes
• Preset Filter Cycles
• Diagnostic Messages & Codes

Click here to view the Balboa Manual

Digital Hot Tub Controler

Below are images of the Balboa Digital Duplex Control System used on Nordic Hot Tubs before 2000.

LIFETIME SHELL GUARANTEE

Nordic's "State of the Art" shell is the finest in the industry. Our PermaShell™ is so rugged we guarantee it for the lifetime of the original owner.

This non-skid shell is guaranteed not to crack, chip, peel, split or delaminate in any weather condition. Unlike acrylic or fiberglass hot tubs and spas, Nordic Products, Inc. can give you guaranteed freeze protection against shell damage, no matter what the temperature variance.

The entire text of Nordic's Limited Lifetime Warranty is available at your nearest Nordic Dealer.

CLICK HERE TO REGISTER ONLINE.

CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE WARRANTY

TWO YEARS ON CONTROL EQUIPMENT AND PLUMBING

The control equipment (power pack, heater, pump/motor) is warranted against defects in materials and/or workmanship for a period of two (2) years.

The plumbing (including fittings) is warranted against leaking due to defects in materials and/or workmanship for a period of two (2) years.

OTHER WARRANTIES

1. The Permawood™ plastic cabinet is warranted against rotting, splitting, delaminating or peeling for 10 years.
2. The ozone system on Hot Tubs equipped with factory-installed ozonators is warranted for a period of one (1) year on parts.
3. The Hot Tub cover skin is warranted against defects in materials and/or workmanship by the manufacturer for a period of two (2) years and one (1) year on the foam inserts.

Please contact Nordic Hot Tubs or the Nordic Dealer nearest you for warranty details.

To view the PDF version, CLICK HERE

Hot Tub Warranty Registration

Please complete the warranty regsitration and mail it to us, CLICK HERE to View the PDF

When the pump 1 is on diverter jet in the water labeled green can divert water to the jets in the spa. This diverter has 2 positions it can be turned to. It will turn only 90 degrees.

	1st position the diverter jet itself
	2nd position the diverter jet will force water out of the blue jets
	These jets always on unless the jet face is turned off
	These jets are operated by pressing the jet 2 button

The air controls control the air to the jets of the same color.

Pump Operation Guide For Systems with Software v41 only. This is the FOUR/4 button model.

Initial Start-up

Your spa will enter Priming Mode (Pr ) when it is energized.


Priming Mode lasts less than 5 minutes. Press “Set” to exit. After Priming Mode, the spa will run in Standard Mode (see Mode section).

• Pump 1 low-speed is responsible for heating and filtration and will be referred to simply as the pump.
• In multi-button sequences, if the buttons are pressed too quickly in sequence, they may not register.
• Low speed pump will run every 30 minutes from 2 to 5 minutes to check the tubs water

Temp Control (80°F - 104°F / 26°F - 40°F)

The last measured water temperature is constantly displayed. The water temperature displayed is current only when the pump has been running for at least 1 minute.

To display the set temperature, press “Warm” or “Cool” once.

To change the set temperature, press a temperature button again before the display stops flashing. Each press of “Warm” or “Cool” will adjust the set temperature. After three seconds, the display will stop flashing and begin to display the current spa temperature..

Jets

Press “Jets” to turn the pump on or off, and to shift between low and high speeds. If left running, the pump will turn off after a preset length of time of 2 hours for low speed and 15 minutes for high speed.

Low speed may run automatically at times, during which it cannot be deactivated from the panel, but high speed may be operated.

The ozone generator (if installed) will activate anytime low speed is running.

Light

Press “Light” to operate the spa light. Turns off after 4 hours.

Mode

Mode is changed by pressing “Set” then “Light”.

Standard Mode maintains set temperature. St will be displayed momentarily when you switch into Standard Mode.

Economy Mode heats the spa to the set temperature only during filter cycles. Ec will display when water temp is not current, and will alternate with water temp when the pump is running.

Sleep Mode heats the spa to within 20°F/10°C of the set temperature only during filter cycles. SL will display when water temp is not current, and will alternate with water temp when the pump is running.

Preset Filter Cycles

The first preset filter cycle begins 6 minutes after the spa is energized.

The second preset filter cycle begins 12 hours later.

Filter duration is programmable for 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 hours.

The default filter time is 1 hour. To program, press “Warm” then “Jets.” Press “Warm or Cool” to adjust. Press “Jets” to exit programming.

Balboa 120V Power Hook Up.

Electrical Hook Up Must Be Performed By A Licensed Electrician

For 120V power hook up dip switch 10 must be in the on position.

For 120V hook up the white 120V jumper wire must be installed from J11 to J32 (WHT AC to RED AC)

If J11 already has a wire installed unplug this wire and move it to J16. Also install the jumper wire from J11 to J32

Without the jumper wire the tub will not heat correctly.


Note. The white jumper wire usually is located in a plastic bag on the back left side of the spa pack.





























Install Line 1 onto the Hot Black labeled on the terminal block. Hot Red will remain empty.
For 120V power hook up dip switch 10 must be in the on position.
For 120V hook up the white 120V jumper wire must be installed from J11 to J32 (WHT AC to RED AC)
If J11 already has a wire installed unplug this wire and move it to J16 or any available spade in the WHT AC.

Without the jumper wire the tub will not heat correctly installed 120V.

Note. The white jumper wire may be located in a plastic bag on the back side of the spa pa

Balboa 240V Power Hook Up.

Electrical Hook Up Must Be Performed By A Licensed Electrician

For 240V power hook up dip switch 10 must be in the off position.

For 240V make sure there is not jumper wire installed from J11 to J32. (WHT AC to RED AC)

If jumper wire is not removed GFCI will trip instantly.






























For 240V power hook up dip switch 10 must be in the off position.

For 240V make sure there is not jumper wire installed from J11 to J32. (WHT AC to RED AC)

If jumper wire is not removed GFCI will trip instantly.

Here is a picture of the plumbing inside the equipment room for a Crown II tub.

This is for the Crown II tubs built between 1999 and 2008 (The Crown II was not built before 1999).

Below is a diagram of our Turbo Jet.

It shows the exploded view of the part and its components.

Below is the Quick Reference Card for the Gecko Control Panel.

Reference Card for the Single Pump Geko Control Panel

Pump Operation Guide For Systems Dual 50Hz/60Hz pumps.

Initial Start-up

Your spa will enter Priming Mode (Pr ) when it is energized.


Priming Mode lasts less than 5 minutes. Press “Set” to exit. After Priming Mode, the spa will run in Standard Mode (see Mode section).

• Pump 1 low-speed is responsible for heating and filtration and will be referred to simply as the pump.
• In multi-button sequences, if the buttons are pressed too quickly in sequence, they may not register.
• Low speed pump will run every 30 minutes from 2 to 5 minutes to check the tubs water

Temp Control (80°F - 104°F / 26°F - 40°F)

The last measured water temperature is constantly displayed. The water temperature displayed is current only when the pump has been running for at least 1 minute.

To display the set temperature, press “Warm” or “Cool” once.

To change the set temperature, press a temperature button again before the display stops flashing. Each press of “Warm” or “Cool” will adjust the set temperature. After three seconds, the display will stop flashing and begin to display the current spa temperature..

Jets

Jets 1

Press “Jets 1” to turn pump 1 on or off, and to shift between low and high speeds. The low-speed will turn off after 4 hours. High-speed will turn off after 15 minutes.

Low-speed may run automatically at times, during which it cannot be deactivated from the panel, but high-speed may be operated.

Jets 2

Press “Jets 1” to turn pump 1 on or off, and to shift between low and high speeds. The device will turn off after 15 minutes.

Light

Press “Light” to operate the spa light. Turns off after 4 hours.

Mode

Mode is changed by pressing “Warm” or “Cool,” then pressing “Mode.”

Standard Mode maintains set temperature. Std will be displayed momentarily when you switch into Standard Mode.

Economy Mode heats the spa to the set temperature only during filter cycles. Ecn will display when water temp is not current, and will alternate with water temp when the pump is running.

Sleep Mode heats the spa to within 20°F/10°C of the set temperature only during filter cycles. SLP will display when water temp is not current, and will alternate with water temp when the pump is running.

Preset Filter Cycles

The first preset filter cycle begins 6 minutes after the spa is energized.

The second preset filter cycle begins 12 hours later.

Filter duration is programmable for 2, 4, 6, or 8 hours or for continuous filtration (indicated by FILC ).

The default filter time is 2 hours.

To program, press “Warm” or “Cool,” then “Jets 1.” Press “Warm” or “Cool” to adjust. Press “Jets 1” to exit programming.

Low-speed pump 1 and the ozone generator (if installed) run during filtration

Pump Operation Guide For Systems with Software v41 only.

Initial Start-up

Your spa will enter Priming Mode (Pr ) when it is energized.


Priming Mode lasts less than 5 minutes. Press “Set” to exit. After Priming Mode, the spa will run in Standard Mode (see Mode section).

• Pump 1 low-speed is responsible for heating and filtration and will be referred to simply as the pump.
• In multi-button sequences, if the buttons are pressed too quickly in sequence, they may not register.
• Low speed pump will run every 30 minutes from 2 to 5 minutes to check the tubs water

Temp Control (80°F - 104°F / 26°F - 40°F)

The last measured water temperature is constantly displayed. The water temperature displayed is current only when the pump has been running for at least 1 minute.

To display the set temperature, press “Set” once. To change the set temperature, press a temperature button again before the display stops flashing. This will either adjust the temperature up or down. Each press of “Set” will adjust the set temperature. After three seconds, the display will stop flashing and begin to display the current spa temperature.

In order to adjust the temperature the opposite way wait the 3 seconds for the spa to show the current spa temp and press the “Set” button again.

Jets

Press “Jets” to turn the pump on or off, and to shift between low and high speeds. If left running, the pump will turn off after a preset length of time of 2 hours for low speed and 15 minutes for high speed.

Low speed may run automatically at times, during which it cannot be deactivated from the panel, but high speed may be operated.

The ozone generator (if installed) will activate anytime low speed is running.

Light

Press “Light” to operate the spa light. Turns off after 4 hours.

Mode

Mode is changed by pressing “Set” then “Light”.

Standard Mode maintains set temperature. St will be displayed momentarily when you switch into Standard Mode.

Economy Mode heats the spa to the set temperature only during filter cycles. Ec will display when water temp is not current, and will alternate with water temp when the pump is running.

Sleep Mode heats the spa to within 20°F/10°C of the set temperature only during filter cycles. SL will display when water temp is not current, and will alternate with water temp when the pump is running.

Preset Filter Cycles

The first preset filter cycle begins 6 minutes after the spa is energized.

The second preset filter cycle begins 12 hours later.

Filter duration is programmable for 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 hours.

The default filter time is 1 hour. To program, press “Set” then “Jets.” Press “Set” to adjust. Press “Jets” to exit programming.

Air Control (Stem) Removal

	1st turn the air control to the MIN position.
	2nd If the air control is still in the tub press firmly down on the air control in the MIN position and while pressing down turn it to the MAX position. If the air control is not in the tub press it between your palms like shown in the picture. And while on the MIN position and pressing the cap down turn the air control to the MAX position.
	Last. After the 2nd step pull on the cap straight out to see if it has released You may have to repeat the 2nd step 2 or 3 time but the air control cap with core should pull straight out of the body.
	There is the 3 shown parts in the picture. The core is the only part the normally needs replaced Left Part – Body Assembly Middle Part – Ball Check Valve Right Part- Core (Stem Assembly) Note: To reinstall the air control core place it in the body on the MAX position and repeat steps above but from MAX to MIN instead.

When the pump 1 is on diverter jet in the water labeled green can divert water to the jets in the spa. This diverter has 2 positions it can be turned to. It will turn only 90 degrees.

	1st position the diverter jet itself
	2nd position the diverter jet will force water out of the blue jets
	These jets always on unless the jet face is turned off
	These jets are operated by pressing the jet 2 button

The air controls control the air to the jets of the same color.

How to Drain your Hot Tub

Question: How do I drain my tub?

Answer: How you drain your tub depends upon what you are doing with it after the water is out. 

1. Drain water to improve water quality - you are going to fill it up immediately afterwards.
2. Drain water to repair equipment (e.g. jets, pumps, ozonator, fittings, et. al.)
3. Drain the water for non-use during warm months.
4. Drain water and winterized the tub

Below are the instructions to completely remove the water in order to winterize or to perform repair. 

If you are simply replacing the water, start a syphon with a garden hose or use a tub vacuum.

THINGS THAT WILL BE NEEDED:

• 2 gallons of NON-TOXIC (R-V type) antifreeze (for winterizing only)
• a strong wet/dry vacuum (shop vac)
• a turkey-baster
• 1 or 2 light plastic bowls approximately 5" diameter
• TIME approx. 2 hours

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Drain your tub.
2. With the wet-vac vacuum out any water remaining in the foot-well. Then with each jet in the open position, vacuum each jet nozzle until no more water comes out. DO NOT FORGET the small ozone jet in the foot-well.
3. With the vacuum over the whirlpool jet nozzle(s) and plastic bowls over the suction covers in the footwell, change it to each diverter position until there is no more water being drawn out.
4. You can apply a Teflon based lubricant (Magic Lube by Aladdin) to the gaskets on the pump, heater, and drain spigot to help avoid them from drying out.
5. Winterizing Only: Remove your filter, clean it and place in storage until you restart your tub. Pour NON-TOXIC antifreeze into the filter canister until it runs out into the foot-well of your tub through the suction covers.
6. With the turkey-baster, squirt a small amount of NON-TOXIC antifreeze into each jet. Usually the side jets will take around one ounce, and the whirlpool jet(s) will take several ounces (about 5 squirts per whirlpool jet). DO NOT FORGET the small ozone jet that is located in the foot-well of your tub.
7. Place the cover on the tub, and place a tarp over the tub and cover. Making sure to securely tie down the tarp. The tarp will help reduce the amount of weather your tub is exposed to.

A COUPLE THINGS YOU SHOULD BE AWARE OF.

When a tub is drained and left empty, o-rings and pump seals can dry out and loose their ability to seal properly. You should closely inspect for small leaks in the equipment area when you do your restart. If you are unsure of the location of the o-rings and pump seal, contact your dealer for help. If replaced early the damage caused by these failures can be inexpensive to fix.

RE-START UP:

When restarting your tub, you will want to fill the tub and run all of the jets on high speed for 10-15 minutes. This will help flush the residue of the antifreeze out of the plumbing. Then drain the tub, clean the sides with an approved cleaner, place your filter back into the filter canister, re-fill your tub and balance your chemicals. You may notice slightly more foaming than normal when you first start using your tub, this can be reduced with anti-foaming agents and generally gets better over the first week or two of usage as the filter removes the anti-freeze and organic residue left behind after rinsing and cleaning.

Make sure you check your filter at least once per week and rinse it out as needed for the first few weeks. You may also find it necessary to soak your filter in a filter cleaner after a few days, depending on the level of contaminant left in the tub after the re-start.

Question: I just bought a used 2004 Nordic Crown XL that has been sitting unused for 2 1/2 years The previous owner had taken the PVC connector off between the pump and heater to drain the tub before moving it into storage and he lost one of the rubber seals for the connection. Are the seals all the same and are they available for individual purchase?

Answer: The seals used in the fittings for the pump is different then the seals for the heater. The heater seals are part # 020004 and for the pump seals they are part # 020025.

In general, be sure to use the correct part for you hot tub - if the exact part is not used, we do not guarantee the tub will function properly.

Parts can be ordered through an authorized Nordic dealer. Click HERE to find one close to your by zip code.

Question: Do you have a guide to show me what all the codes mean on the display panel?

Answer: Take a look at our Pump Operation Guide - it sose the modes, and filter cycles. You can also click here to see the multi-language owner's manual.

Question: Why do we keep getting the HL code on the pad even though the tub is not hot yet. After a clean and refill we turned it on and still get the HL code.

Answer: The HL code can be caused by the PC board, Sensor, or Heater. Most often cause is the PC board or sensor. In order for the heater to cause this error it has to be bad and no GFCI or bad GFCI installed in the electric. If you have a GFCI breaker installed and it trips when you push the test button then it is the board or sensor. The only way to tell is to plug a new sensor into the board and see if it works.

Question: My spa is functioning; however, its making a strained sound when the pump is on.  I have cleaned and replaced the filter, checked chemicals, cleaned the jets, and intakes.  Im afraid its gonna blow up it sounds so loud. What should I do?

Answer: Pump noise can be caused by something stuck in the pump head, motor failure, or PC board failure. A service technician will have to be on sight to diagnose the spa.  Most commonly I see bad motor bearings as a cause of noise.

Click here to find a/your dealer.

Question: What model and manufacturer information is available to purchase a replacement filter for my Nordic Hot Tub?

Answer:

Nordic Filter Cartridges

All Nordic models excluding the Bella and retreat model

Manufacture	Part#
Nordic Products	CARTRIDGE
Pleatco	PRB25-IN
Unicel	C-4326
Rainbow	17-2325
Waterways	817-2500
Premier	27-101
Baker Hydro	17-B1086
Harmsco	RCHRA25
Filbur Manufacturing	FC-2375

Bella Model

Manufacture	Part#
Nordic Products	CARTRIDGE14.5
Pleatco	PRB14.5
Unicel	C-2302
Filbur Manufacturing	FC-2320

Retreat Model

Manufacture	Part#
Nordic Products	CARTRIDGE-T35

Question: I have a nordic spa and there is a crack in the tub, can you tell me how I can seal it?

Answer: Nordic Hot Tubs hava a life time warranty. We will fix your tub and not charge you for a replacement shell or for the labor. You are required to ship the tub to us. To facilitate any warranty work, we ask the following questions:

• Have you contacted your dealer? What is the Dealer's Name?
• Are you the original owner of the hot tub?
• How long ago did you purchase the tub? Purchase Date?
• Where is the crack located?
• Can you send us a photo?
• What is the hot tub serial number?

When you purchase the tub, make sure our Dealer and/or you register the hot tub. You can register online by clicking HERE.

Question: How do I restart the tub after draining?

Answer: RE-START UP PROCEDURES:

When restarting your tub, you will want to fill the tub and run all of the jets on high speed for 10-15 minutes. This will help flush the residue of the antifreeze out of the plumbing. Then drain the tub, clean the sides with an approved cleaner, place your filter back into the filter canister, re-fill your tub and balance your chemicals. You may notice slightly more foaming than normal when you first start using your tub, this can be reduced with anti-foaming agents and generally gets better over the first week or two of usage as the filter removes the anti-freeze and organic residue left behind after rinsing and cleaning.

Make sure you check your filter at least once per week and rinse it out as needed for the first few weeks. You may also find it necessary to soak your filter in a filter cleaner after a few days, depending on the level of contaminant left in the tub after the re-start.

How to Winterize your Hot Tub

Question: How do I winterize my tub after my tubbing season is over?

Answer: While we feel that some of the best times to use your spa can be during the colder months, we understand that there can be a need for some owners to close their tubs during the winter months. We feel that winterization should be left to the professionals, but if done carefully using the following instructions your risk of damage from freezing can be minimized. Please note, we do not warrant against freezing damage in a tub that has been winterized, either by the owner of by a professional service center.

THINGS THAT WILL BE NEEDED:

• 2 gallons of NON-TOXIC (R-V type) antifreeze
• a strong wet/dry vacuum (shop vac)
• a turkey-baster
• 1 or 2 light plastic bowls approximately 5" diameter
• TIME approx. 2 hours

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Drain your tub.
2. With the wet-vac vacuum out any water remaining in the foot-well. Then with each jet in the open position, vacuum each jet nozzle until no more water comes out. DO NOT FORGET the small ozone jet in the foot-well.
3. With the vacuum over the whirlpool jet nozzle(s) and plastic bowls over the suction covers in the footwell, change it to each diverter position until there is no more water being drawn out.
4. Remove your filter, clean it and place in storage until you restart your tub. Pour NON-TOXIC antifreeze into the filter canister until it runs out into the foot-well of your tub through the suction covers.
5. With the turkey-baster, squirt a small amount of NON-TOXIC antifreeze into each jet. Usually the side jets will take around one ounce, and the whirlpool jet(s) will take several ounces (about 5 squirts per whirlpool jet). DO NOT FORGET the small ozone jet that is located in the foot-well of your tub.
6. Place the cover on the tub, and place a tarp over the tub and cover. Making sure to securely tie down the tarp. The tarp will help reduce the amount of weather your tub is exposed to.

A COUPLE THINGS YOU SHOULD BE AWARE OF.

When a tub is drained and left empty, o-rings and pump seals can dry out and loose their ability to seal properly. You should closely inspect for small leaks in the equipment area when you do your restart. If you are unsure of the location of the o-rings and pump seal, contact your dealer for help. If replaced early the damage caused by these failures can be inexpensive to fix.

RE-START UP:

When restarting your tub, you will want to fill the tub and run all of the jets on high speed for 10-15 minutes. This will help flush the residue of the antifreeze out of the plumbing. Then drain the tub, clean the sides with an approved cleaner, place your filter back into the filter canister, re-fill your tub and balance your chemicals. You may notice slightly more foaming than normal when you first start using your tub, this can be reduced with anti-foaming agents and generally gets better over the first week or two of usage as the filter removes the anti-freeze and organic residue left behind after rinsing and cleaning.

Make sure you check your filter at least once per week and rinse it out as needed for the first few weeks. You may also find it necessary to soak your filter in a filter cleaner after a few days, depending on the level of contaminant left in the tub after the re-start.

Question: The contol panel shows "FL" - What does this mean?

Answer: FL means the tub is not sensing water flow through the heater. This can be caused by a dirty or bad filter. If replacing the filter does not resolve the issue a service technician should diagnoses the tub on sight.

Question: I installed my hot tub and ran it for about a month and found out that the energy is quite large. This is going to be bigger in Winter. What can I do?

Answer: The first months bill is going to be the highest due to the cost off heating the spa from cold to the desired temp. You may also want to make sure the filter cycle is set on 2 or 3. If it is set higher it can cost more to run.

Question: Some swimming pools use salt water and sodium bromide - do you recommend this for your hot tubs?

Answer: We do not recommend the use of Salt Water Bromide as a sanitizer. We do have hot tub cleaning and water sanitizing producedures - click to view. This procedure works very well especially with an ozonator. When used correctly the chlorine has dissipated from the water before your next use. This will help eliminate harsh chlorine odor and skin irritation.

NOTE: Using Bromine in your tub will void the warranty.

Question: How long does it take to heat the water in the tub?

Answer: Here are the caveats:

1. Ambient Temperature (if it is colder outside, it takes longer to heat the tub)
2. Cover In Place (it will take longer if the cover is off - keep the cover on while heating the water)
3. All components are in good working condition

The spa will heat between 3 to 6 degrees per hour.

Question: What gauge wire do I need for my tub?

Answer: The wire gauge will have to meet the local code for a 50 Amp continuous draw circuit at the distance you are running the wire.

Nordic recommends a  6 gauge wire, as long as it is big enough to meet the local codes requirements.

It must be wired on a 50 Amp GFCI circuit and requires 4 wires.

Question: Can I use Hydrogen Peroxid (H₂O₂) or Bromine to sanitize my hot tub?

Answer: The use of Bromine or Hydrogen Peroxide as a sanitizer is NOT recommended.

Using Hydrogen Peroxide Voids the Nordic Warranty

Question: I own a Bella hot tub and wanting to know how to change the light cover in the tub. Can I do this while the tub is filled?

Answer: The colored light covers press over clear lens. You should be able to remove them by hand. This can be done with the spa full.

Question: What are the steps to keep my tub and the water clean?

Answer: Below is our guide to keeping your Nordic Tub clean.

Water Clarity Procedures for Nordic Hot Tubs

1 . If using “ground” or “well” water, (do NOT use soft water!) a MINERAL or METAL Gone or Out product must be used on fill-up. (this is not an inhibitor product but a “gone” or “out” product. I recommend Leisure Time “Metal Gone”. The filter may need to be sprayed for a couple days as the minerals collect in the filter (even if not visible still spray)

2 . Use ONLY a chlorine Di-Chlor granular product. When using with an ozonator, set the filtration cycle time at 8 to 12 hours a day AT FIRST. This is done on the “control panel” with a setting of either 4 or 8 indicating two 4 hour cycles or two 8 hour cycles. When the “tub” is done being used for the last time of each day it is USED, add 1-2 TABLESPOONS of the Di-Chlor chlorine. This will help the ozonator catch up to the sanitation needed and will also dissipate quickly not leaving a “chlorine” smell. Adjust cycle times according to your water performance.

3 . Each day the tub is USED, the ph must be balanced. Again this is done AFTER the last time the tub is USED for that day. A “liquid drop” test kit that tests only chlorine and ph is recommended and needed. When testing the ph, be sure to
add less than you think so if more is needed it can be added rather than “adding chemicals” to overcome “over-adding” chemicals. The chlorine test results ONLY need to show a “trace” Di-Chlor reading (if an ozonator is being used too). If
an ozonator is NOT being used, the Di-Chlor reading should be in the range indicated by the test kit as correct.

4 . From time-to-time, a “clarifier” and a “calcium inhibitor” are needed as a maintenance procedure. This is determined by the usage of your tub. The more it is used, the more “maintenance” chemicals needed.

This is a guide. Variances will occur depending on each individual situation. This guide is recommended for 45 days on which YOUR formula and procedure will come together for YOUR tub and needs. Then your tub water maintenance will be easy and care-free.

*NOTE: This becomes easier when your formula is working. A period of time is needed (as the 45 days indicates) to get this correct. Nordic Hot Tubs are made of a “poly blend” and differs from ALL the rest of the hot tubs typically on the market. Because of this advanced technology and material being used by Nordic Hot Tubs, “other” sanitation systems that require either what is said to be “no maintenance” or continual re-buying of something to get your water clear, is intended to sell more chemicals or products. Nordic Hot Tub water maintenance is economical, affordable, unique and eventually simple. This is a tried and true guide proven to work EVERYTIME in a Nordic Hot Tub!

FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY AND PRECISELY.

Question: Where on the tub can I locate the product Serial Number?

Answer: Each tub has a label on the side of the tub that finishes our manufacturing process.  Get out your reading glasses and look toward the bottom of the label.

Take a look at the photos below...

Shell Removal

Servicing plumbing:

Troubleshooting: When it is suspected that a tub has a leak a “Leak Down Test” should be performed to locate the level of the leak.

Leak Down test: Turn power off and allow 24 hours for the water to leak down. Mark on the shell with a grease pencil where to waterline is. Allow another 24 hours for leaking and mark the waterline. Continue this process until the waterline no longer drops.


This will indicate the level of the leak. At this point check all fittings at that level to ensure that they are tight. If the spa still leaks after checking for any loose filling or fixtures, then the shell must be removed from the cabinet for a more complete plumbing inspection.

NOTE: A special note should be taken here, that in most cases leaks are caused by fittings with gaskets inside the equipment area, so be very sure to check and re-check the pump unions, filter nut, heater unions and hose bib connector, as well as the light and suction intake fittings. Other possible leaks in the equipment room would be the temp sensor, pump seal, and ozonator hose.

Shell Removal: This following should be done by a spa service technician

When servicing Nordic Round tubs access to the plumbing is most easily accomplished by removing the shell (plastic interior liner) from the cabinet (exterior wood or plastic enclosure).

On rare occasions it may be necessary to remove a Nordic shell from its cabinet, for plumbing inspection or shell replacement in the case of shell damage.

The following procedure should take approximately 20 minutes, and should be done by two people.

Shell Removal:

• With the power off and the spa drained.
• Disconnect the suction side union on the pump and the left heater union.
• If applicable disconnect the ozonator air-line and unplug it from the control box
• Unplug the topside control from the control box,
• In tubs prior to 2008 disconnect the temperature sensor from the control box.
• Disconnect the light harness from the control box.
• Remove the 2 screws holding the pump down and the 2 screws holding the pack
• Remove the equipment from the spa
• Remove the 8 screws around the lip of the shell.

To help with lining the tub back up when re-installing it is a good idea to mark the shell and cabinet with masking tape.

For shell replacements, you will want to do the same but use a landmark like the center of the air controls.
Using two people, lift the shell and associated plumbing and foam out of the cabinet.

NOTE: A Nordic hot tub can be filled and run outside of the cabinet, for pressure leak detection.

Reassemble shell and cabinet in the reverse order.

Lifetime Warranty = The Best Hot Tub Warranty

We can guarantee our tub shells will last your lifetime because of our manufacturing, construction & materials.

Nordic's Hot Tub Shells are made of durable high grade, high density polyethylene. This is the same material used in:

• Kayaks
• Truck Bed Liners
• Snowmobile Skis
• Plastic Lumber
• Fuel Tanks

Other Acrylic tubs will chip, scratch, and crack - not your Nordic Tub's Shell.

Nordic's Shell Construction Benefits

• Less Expensive Material (i.e. High Density Polyethylene - HDPE)
• Extremely durable

• Does not scratch easily
• Advanced Shell Technology
• Lifetime Warranty
• 10X tensile strength compared to acrylic

Most other spa manufacturers use Acrylic shell materials that have significant drawbacks. Some of these are:

• Expensive (triple the cost of HDPE)
• Scratches easily
• Bubbles and cracks overtime
• Does not handle prolonged exposure to sunlight
• Looses heat more quickly

Nordic uses the Balboa control system to monitor and operate the tub electronics.

Click HERE to view the manual in pdf format.

In warmer weather we receive calls about tubs heating past the set point by several degrees.

Most cases are caused by the filter duration being set too high. Below are some tips to keep the spa running cooler in the warmer months. If you follow these tips, the spa will normally overheat only 1 or 3 degrees past the set point.

1. if the spa is set to filter too many hours a day it can cause it to overheat. The filter duration should be set at F2 or F3. The duration is how many hours it will run the low speed pump to filter in a 12 hour period. When the pump is running it produces a lot of heat which is being absorbed by the spa
2. you can also adjust when you want the filter cycle to run. The 1st 12 hour cycle starts 6 minutes after the power is turned on to the spa. You then can set the tub to run the cycles early morning and at night when the outside temperatures are cooler.
3. the air controls should remain open in the warmer months to help circulate air into the water to help keep it cool. The air is pulled from inside the cabinet and will help cooler air circulate in. Keeping them closed in the colder months will help the energy efficiency
4. using the Economy mode. Although you can not use this tip with tip #2 it works very well if it fits into your schedule. If you always use your spa the same time at night you can set the filter cycle to start a few hours before use. The spa will then be heated to the set point when you use it and it has the rest of the day to cool below the set point.

How fast does the water temperature increase?

There are a few conditions that affect the speed:

1. Ambient Temperature (if it is colder outside, it takes longer to heat the tub)
2. Cover In Place (it will take longer if the cover is off - keep the cover on while heating the water)
3. All components are in good working condition

When you take these factors into account:

The spa will heat between 3 to 6 degrees per hour.

Information about ozone in your hot tub.

1. DEFINITION OF OZONE?
2. ARE THERE ANY BENEFITS OF OZONE?
3. DOES OZONE KILL ODORS, GERMS, BACTERIA AND VIRUSES? HOW?
4. WHAT DOES OXIDATION MEAN?
5. WHAT HAPPENS TO OZONE AFTER IT IS USED UP?
6. HOW LONG DOES OZONE STAY AROUND?
7. IS OZONE BETTER THAN CHLORINE OR BROMINE?
8. IF I USE OZONE IN MY HOT TUB, DO I NEED TO USE CHLORINE?
9. WHAT DOES OZONE KILL?
10. CAN I SMELL OZONE?
11. WON'T I CONTRIBUTE TO OZONE ALERTS?
12. WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF USING OZONE?




Q. DEFINITION OF OZONE?

A. Ozone was first discovered in the 1840's and is nature's natural purifier. It is a chemical known as O³ and is produced, in nature, from lightning bolts during electrical storms (it's clean, fresh scent is often noticed after a heavy rain) and by ultra violet rays from the sun . When these rays enter earth's atmosphere, the oxygen in the upper atmosphere is converted into ozone. This is how earth's ozone layer is created. The special ultra violet rays of the sun are simply duplicated using special ultra violet lamps. When air is passed by these lamps, the oxygen is converted into ozone.Ozone is a form of oxygen also known as "active oxygen". It is a natural purifier, created by combining three oxygen atoms and is a strong cleaning, purification and oxidizing agent. As it reacts with organics it oxidizes unpleasant odors, kills germs, bacteria and viruses.

Ozone does not leave contaminants in the water that smell, look or taste bad nor does ozone leave potentially hazardous by-products such as chloramines that can irritate your eyes, dry out your skin, fade swimwear, and damage pool and spa or water storage equipment. In fact, unused ozone reverts back to life-giving oxygen.

By combining the ultraviolet rays from the sun with the air we breathe, ozone is naturally generated . In 1906, the city of Nice, France, built the first municipal water purification plant using ozone. Today, there are over 2,000 plants worldwide using ozone to purify drinking water.

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Q.ARE THERE ANY BENEFITS OF OZONE?

A.Unlike other sanitizers ozone leaves no unpleasant odors or residual chemicals in your spa. Typically, you can go much longer between water changes not to mention reducing your maintenance time and chemical consumption by up to 90%. Ozone eliminates the problems of red and irritated eyes, dry skin, faded swim wear and other problems associated with chlorine and bromine. Ozone also has no effect on the chemical balance of your spas water and will even help in the removal of dissolved minerals, oils and lotions.

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Q.DOES OZONE KILL ODORS, GERMS, BACTERIA AND VIRUSES? HOW?

A. One of the oxygen atoms has a weak bond and readily wants to transfer electrons. This allows for the transfer of electrons between the contaminant and the ozone molecule. As a consequence, the ozone molecule will come apart. When the single oxygen atom combines with the other organic substances it oxidizes them causing them to be destroyed and eliminated from the water or air. The by-product of this oxidation process is 0, which is oxygen.

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Q. WHAT DOES OXIDATION MEAN?

A. Oxidation means that a substance undergoes a chemical change resulting in a different substance. A common example of this is rust.

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Q. WHAT HAPPENS TO OZONE AFTER IT IS USED UP?

A. When it combines with the other organic substances it oxidizes them causing them to be destroyed and eliminated from the water or air. The byproduct of this oxidation process is simple life-giving oxygen.

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Q. HOW LONG DOES OZONE STAY AROUND?

A. The rate at which ozone lasts varies. In air it is directly related to the temperature, altitude, humidity, weather conditions, and availability of reactive substances. Ozone begins to decompose instantly, however it has a half life of 20 to 100 minutes in dry air, at which time it converts back to oxygen if no organic substances are present. In water the rate at which ozone lasts is directly related to temperature and organic content in the water.

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Q. IS OZONE BETTER THAN CHLORINE OR BROMINE?

A. Unlike chlorine and bromine, ozone leaves no harmful byproducts or odors in your water. Additionally, ozone is the strongest commercially available disinfectant, yet very safe, and over 3000 times faster than chlorine for purifying water and is more effective for elimination of e. coli, giardia, legionnella, and cryptosporidium.

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Q. IF I USE OZONE IN MY HOT TUB, DO I NEED TO USE CHLORINE?

A. Ozone is very effective as a sanitizer, however because of the low doses being produced along with ozone's short life span ,it is improbable that there will be a residual of sanitizer in the water, therefore, it is recommended that you maintain a 1 PPM residual of chlorine to prevent typical algae problems. With ozone, you will notice that you reduce chlorine or bromine use 60% - 90%, water will feel soft and silky and you won't have problems with faded swimwear, red / irritated eyes, or dry skin. Reduced maintenance time and chemical usage will give you more time to enjoy your pool or spa.

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Q. WHAT DOES OZONE KILL?

A. Ozone is known to eliminate the following substances:

• Bacteria - (such as E-coli, salmonella, streptococcus, cholera) . These are micro-organisms about 1/100th the diameter of a human hair and are relatively easy to kill.
• Viruses - (such as influenza, poliovirus, hepatitis). A virus is a parasitic, infectious microbe which can cause disease in humans.
• Parasites - (such as trichina worms, pinworms, amoebae, nematodes and fungi). Parasite eggs are large in microscopic scale and relatively easy to filter out, but are generally resistant to other disinfecting methods.
• Cysts - (such as cryptosporidium and giardia). Cysts are protozoa that produce a special protective shell.
• Chemical by-products in water - such as chloramines an trihalomethenes. Chemical water can leave undesirable odors and taste.

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Q. CAN I SMELL OZONE?

A. Ozone has a sweet smell to it and can be noticed at various levels depending upon their sensitivity, generally .003 to .015 PPM.

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Q. WON'T I CONTRIBUTE TO OZONE ALERTS?

A. Ozone pollution or smog pollution alerts are not the same. This pollution is caused by UV waves striking oxides of nitrogen from auto exhaust and factory emissions.

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WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF USING OZONE

• Ozone destroys bacteria, mold, and mildew, eliminates spores, yeast, and fungus, and inactivates viruses and cysts.
• Ozone oxidizes and destroys oils and other contaminants in water.
• Ozone can significantly reduce levels of harsh chemicals such as chlorine and bromine.
• Ozone acts as a microflocculant aiding in the removal of minerals such as iron and manganese.
• Ozone is pH neutral. Adds no contaminants.
• Ozone leaves no unpleasant chemical taste or smell.
• Ozone dissolved in water will not irritate skin, nose, or ears, nor will it dry out or leave a chemical film on skin.
• Ozone can reduce chlorine or bromine consumption to a minimum, saving money on maintenance.
• Ozone does not affect the pH balance of water like traditional chemical treatment methods.
• Ozone is less corrosive than chlorine in water.

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Chemicals used in Spas & Hot Tubs

Which manufacturer has the best Hot Tub chemicals? Just ask - they all do. All suppliers and manufacturers sell their own products not their competitors. So the best way to find out is to ask an owner. Friends or freinds of friends that have owned a hot tub for a number of years have probably tried different brands and types. They will be your best source of information.

Ozone

Corona Discharge CD vs Ultra Violet UV - There are two types of ozone generator used in the spa industry, one is a CD or Corona Discharge, the other is a UV or one that uses an Ultra Violet light to generate ozone from the oxygen contained in regular air.

UV - Air (usually ambient) is passed over an ultraviolet lamp, which splits oxygen (O2) molecules in the gas. The resulting oxygen atoms (O-), seeking stability, attach to other oxygen molecules (O2), forming ozone (O3). The ozone is injected into the water, or air stream, where it inactivates contaminants by actually rupturing the organisms’ cell wall - thus killing bacteria.

These are the most common type of ozonator. They are less expensive at purchase and less expensive to service.

CD - operate fundamentally by passing dried, oxygen-containing gas through an electrical field. The electrical current causes the “split” in the oxygen molecules as described in the section on ultraviolet ozone generation.

CD Ozonators will cost more and may last a little longer but usually cost more to service.

Pound for pound, ozone is the most potent way to kill bacterial.

Ozone will get you 80% of the way there. You will still need some sanitizer and pH control chemicals. With an ozonator on your hot tub you will use less chemicals. The cost reduction in chemicals reduces operating costs and results in a pay back for the added cost in two or three years.

Chlorine

The most common chemical used in pools, spas, and hot tubs is Chlorine.

Granular Chlorine (Di-chlor)

Granular chlorine has been used in spa water maintenance for years, this in combination with an ozone generator is what I use on my own spa. Chlorine is a fast acting short-lived chemical when used in hot water. It has 2.5 times the oxidizing potential of Bromine, and can be used as its own shock. When used properly it leaves very little odor in the water. The eye burn and strong smell that many people associate with Chlorine usage is primarily due to a buildup of Chloramines ( a byproduct of Chlorine and organic material) in the water. Chloramines can be removed by regular shock treatments.

The method I use is to add one tablespoon of high quality (99% active ingredient) granular chlorine after each use. (Which averages three-four times per week.) Then I check my pH three times per week, usually only having to adjust it once. I add a small amount of scale control chemical whenever I add water. I also add a double dose of Chlorine once a week as a shock treatment. I would estimate my annual chemical costs at $70 per year. About one half to one quarter the average. And my water is crystal clear.

An excellent , and well detailed di-chlor instruction can be found at: http://www.rhtubs.com/dichlor_vermonter.htm

Scale and Mineral control Chemicals

Chemical treatment for mineral in your source water is very important. Out of control mineral content can damage many of the components in the spa, and like other avoidable damage, this is usually not covered under warranty. There are many brand names of scale and mineral control chemicals. The majority of them have two components, one is an acid that helps to break up any calcium scale that has started to form. The other component is a polymer that coats the mineral in the water and keeping it from forming scale. Here again you get what you pay for, with so many mixes out there, there is a strength for every brand. I would talk to again, the dealer as well as friends who have spas or hot tubs. And decide from there.

SOFT WATER - Water's natural state is to be slightly hard. If you add softened water to your spa , the water will tend to draw mineral into itself, through osmosis. Where it finds this mineral, is your heater element and / or your pump seal. You can purchase calcium to harden your water if soft water is all you have available. If you are in doubt as to whether or not your water is hard have it tested, by either a spa and pool dealer, or in some instances of city water, your water company will test your water for you or be able to give you a reasonable estimate of the hardness of your source water. Water drawn from wells can be anywhere from soft to extremely hard. Here again if in doubt, have it tested.

Shock Treatment

Again I will recommend that you read the labels. I have seen the same chemicals packaged in two-ounce packages that sell for as much as six times the same chemical sold in 1 pound packages (on an ounce for ounce basis). Here is one case where marketing plays a big roll in price. I have seen the same chemical shock, in tablet form sell for much more than it does in powder form. DON'T BUY A SALES PITCH! Especially when you are buying chemicals.

The most common spa / hot tub shock treatment, is Potassium mono-per sulfate, or Potassium per-oxy-mono-sulfate, chemically these two are very similar, in their actions they are almost indistinguishable.

When using Bromine tablets in your spa / hot tub, it is necessary to shock the water with one of these non-chlorine shock treatments once a week.

Clarifying Agents , Clarifiers

Clarifiers are, for the most part, a polymer, that goes into the water sticks the particles that cause the water to be cloudy together, making larger particles that the filter can more easily pick out. If over used or used with a tub that has an ozone generator, this flocking agent can cause a sticky brownish scum that can be difficult to clean off, so follow the directions, but keep in mind that with polymer based clarifiers less can be more.

I have tried other non-polymer clarifiers, that were billed as natural, but had no success with them. Most clarifiers are non-toxic anyway so I don't know how much of a benefit "all natural" is with them.

Biguanide Sanitizers

This system uses a Biguanide sanitizer with a Hydrogen Peroxide based shock. I have never sold these products, because the spa manufacturers I was carrying at the time voided portions of the spa's warranty if you used peroxide based shocks. Some spa / hot tub manufacturers still do. So read your warranty before purchasing this type of system.

I can tell you, that I did change a number of other people's customers to Chlorine after they had tried biguanide in their spas / hot tubs. The reasons that they were unhappy with it were.

* Slime, if the right things get introduced to the water, this system can make a pinkish slime.
* Cost, these systems can be prohibitively expensive. As much as three to four times the cost of an ozone and chlorine system
* Toxicity to internal flora. One customer came to me with a concern that the Biguanide would kill the naturally occurring bacteria in their digestive system. I could find nothing to disprove or support this claim.

Mineral Beds

In the last few years a new alternative sanitize has come on the market. These are billed as "natural" and contain silver ( a bactericide) and copper (an algaecide). With these systems it is recommended that you use a Potassium based shock or Granular Chlorine as a shock and to activate the mineral bed.

I have tried to use these systems on several different types of spas without any luck. I have had chemical customers that have used them with success, but to a one all had a pressurized canister type of filter as opposed to an open skimming type filter.

After calculating their chemical consumption and the replacement cost of the mineral bed I found this system to be more expensive than a regular Chlorine or Bromine system.

My best advice here is again talk to someone who is using the system in the same type of spa with the same or more severe bather load before purchasing such a system.

*** SPECIAL NOTE: Since first writing this article, I have seen a growing incidents of pieces of plastic housing from some mineral bed cartridges, getting sucked into the spa / hot tub water pump. This is a non-warranty nuisance, so if you use anything that goes into the filter area of your spa / hot tub be sure that you do not loose a piece down the plumbing , and into the spa / hot tub water pump. Super gluing that sucker together will usually keep it from coming apart in small enough pieces to go down the proverbial tube.

Liquid Minerals or Ions

Coming into fashion are liquid forms of the Mineral based products mentioned above. The same advice and cautions can be applied in the case of these products.

footnote: The use of copper in some of these systems is falling from grace, as EPA regulations regarding the discharge of copper into the water shed get more stringent (Copper kills fish and algae). Silver and now zinc seem to be taking the place of copper for many water treatment programs.

Canada has a ban on many copper based water treatment systems for these reasons.


It is a good idea to check you ozonator frequently to see if it is still working. They will usually have a window through which you can see a purple light, if the light is on the ozonator is working. When you are checking to see if your ozonator is working, make sure that your tub is in the proper mode. (Some Ozonators will only function when the tub is in "filter mode") Note, ozone bulbs can lose potency and should be replaced every 3 years even if they still light.

pH Increaser and Decreaser

pH increaser is used when the pH of your spa's water drops below 7.2 to 7.4, it can also be used to increase the water's Alkalinity level. Most commonly, pH increaser is sold in a powder form which consists of Sodium Carbonate. Not to be confused with Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda) which is commonly sold as Alkalinity increaser. Both Sodium Carbonate and Sodium Bicarbonate will increase your pH and Alkalinity, Bicarb will increase the Alkalinity in a higher proportion. Also sold in liquid form as pH increaser is Potassium Carbonate, which is generally more expensive than the powdered pH increasers. Although slightly stronger I do not think that Potassium Carbonate in the long term pays for itself.

pH decrease is used when your tubs water's pH goes above 7.8, it can also be used to lower the Alkalinity level. Sodium Bisulfate is the dry chemical sold as pH decrease. Sodium Bisulfate can also be found in liquid form. It is not a good idea to use Muriatic acid as a pH decrease in hot tubs, as that it is too strong for use in such a small amount of water.

You should always dilute or dissolve pH control chemicals in a pail of water prior to adding it to the spa. Always add chemical to water, not water to chemical, to reduce splash hazard. The chemicals should then be added near the center of the spa with the jets running.

If you add chemicals directly to the spa there is a risk that strong concentrations of chemical will be pulled into the equipment through the suction intakes.

NEVER ADD ANY CHEMICALS DIRECTLY TO THE SKIMMER OF YOUR TUB.

Here are some of the typical problems you may experience with your hot tub water - the cause and solutions.

Click here to view/print a PDF of this information.

Problem	Cause	Solution
Calcium Deposits on Shell Surface	Hard Water. pH, total alkalinity not in balance	Clean with a non-abrasive Hot Tub surface cleaner Test water, adjust pH as needed Add a stain and scale control chemical
Cloudy Water	pH, total alkalinity not in balance Damaged or dirty filter Addition of incompatible chemicals Low chlorine level Buildup of oils, soap, foreigh matter	Add a water clarifier. Then circulate for a minimum of 30 minutes. After water has cleared, clean filter cartridge with a filter cleaner or replace if necessary. Test chlorine and pH levels, adjust if necessary. Change water.
Colored Water	Copper or iron metals in Hot Tub due to water supply or corrosion of heater. Total alkalinity, pH are low	Add an iron/stain and scale remover. Test pH, adjust if necessary.
Eye and Skin Irritation	pH, total alkalinity not in balance Inadequate chlorine level. Addition of incompatible chemicals.	Test pH and chlorine levels, adjust if necessary
Excessive Foam	pH, total alkalinity not in balance Low calcium hardness Inadequate oxidation Addition of incompatible chemicals Buildup of body oils and/or contaminants	Add an anti-foam agent Add shock Adjust chlorine level Test pH, adjust if necessary Take water sample to dealer to check total alkalinity and calcium hardness Change water
Odor	Inadequate ventilation Addition of incompatible chemicals Insufficient oxidation Inadequate cleaning of cover Low pH Chemical overdose	Test pH and chlorine levels, adjust if necessary Clean with non-abrasive Hot Tub surface cleaner Clean underside of the cover with a cover cleaner or mild soap and warm water
Waterline Deposits & Staining	Buildup of body oils, impurities Use of clarifying agents with ozone Hard water (minerals in water)	Test pH and chlorine levels, adjust if necessary Clean with a non-abrasive Hot Tub surface cleaner Add a scale/stain control chemical Take water sample to your dealer

Water Clarity Procedures for Nordic Hot Tubs

This is a guide following the warranty stated in the Nordic Hot Tub warranty.

CLEAN SHELL FIRST using a mild non-abrasive cleaner (use a “white” Teflon scrub pad if needed to assist in stubborn areas)

1. If using “ground” or “well” water, (do NOT use soft water!) a MINERAL or METAL Gone or Out product must be used on fill-up. (this is not an inhibitor product but a “gone” or “out” product. I recommend Leisure Time “Metal Gone”. The filter may need to be sprayed for a couple days as the minerals collect in the filter (even if not visible still spray)

2. Use ONLY a chlorine Di-Chlor granular product. When using with an ozonator, set the filtration cycle time at 8 to 12 hours a day AT FIRST. This is done on the “control panel” with a setting of either 4 or 8 indicating two 4 hour cycles or two 8 hour cycles. When the “tub” is done being used for the last time of each day it is USED, add 1-2 TABLESPOONS of the Di-Chlor chlorine. This will help the ozonator catch up to the sanitation needed and will also dissipate quickly not leaving a “chlorine” smell. Adjust cycle times according to your water performance.

3. Each day the tub is USED, the ph must be balanced. Again this is done AFTER the last time the tub is USED for that day. A “liquid drop” test kit that tests only chlorine and ph is recommended and needed. When testing the ph, be sure to add less than you think so if more is needed it can be added rather than “adding chemicals” to overcome “over-adding” chemicals. The chlorine test results ONLY need to show a “trace” Di-Chlor reading (if an ozonator is being used too). If an ozonator is NOT being used, the Di-Chlor reading should be in the range indicated by the test kit as correct.

4. From time-to-time, a “clarifier” and a “calcium inhibitor” are needed as a maintenance procedure. This is determined by the usage of your tub. The more it is used, the more “maintenance” chemicals needed.

This is only a guide.

This guide is recommended for 45 days on which YOUR formula and procedure will come together for YOUR tub and needs. Then your tub water maintenance will be easy and care-free.

*NOTE: This becomes easier when your formula is working. A period of time is needed (as the 45 days indicates) to get this correct.

Nordic Hot Tubs are made of a “poly blend” and differs from ALL the rest of the hot tubs typically on the market. Because of this advanced technology and material being used by Nordic Hot Tubs, “other” sanitation systems that require either what is said to be “no maintenance” or continual re-buying of something to get your water clear, is intended to sell more chemicals or products.

Nordic Hot Tub water maintenance is economical, affordable, unique and eventually simple. This is a tried and true guide proven to work EVERYTIME in a Nordic Hot Tub!

FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY AND PRECISELY.

Nordic does not recommend using soft water in your hot tub or spa.

If you have hard water or well water we recommend using a filter that attached to the end of the hose.

If you have very hard water, it is recommended to use Metal Gone.

Soft water tends to be low in calcium and hard water tends to be high. This can disrupt the effectiveness of the chemical balance of the water.

Other Tips:

• You should check the calcium level every time you add water to the spa and adjust as needed.
• The recommended calcium hardness level for a hot tub is between 100 -200mg/l.
• Low calcium can cause corrosion.
• High calcium can cause cloudy water, and calcium deposits throughout the tub.